RUMI and the MEVLANA MUSEUM, NIGDE

Here it is the 7th day….Summer Soltice…and we are in the city of RUMI, Konya, where 9 thousand and I mean NINE THOUSAND years ago, the Selcuk Sultante of Rum ruled. The Sultan’s first name was Alaaddin. (Remember Adaddin and the beautiful carpet?) The Sultan established a beautiful mosque which is one of the oldest in Turkey.

We walked through the Mevlana Museum where Rumi established a sect of universal love and where the “whirling” dervishes lived and practiced. Rumi is considered one of the world’s greatest mystics. It is considered a sacred Muslin place and was full of visitors from Turkey and from around the world. It is beautiful and peaceful and surrounded by beautiful gardens!!

We traveled on to visit a Konya private high school and join them for lunch. Again the faculty stressed the annual examinations which had just been completed. As a private high school they are evaluated on where their students land in examination results. They have 500 students selected from 2000 applicants annually. 180 live in dormitories, 320 commute. They run a regular government dictated curriculum for 375 students and a Science High School for the rest. (like a gifted program). This was an all boys school. The girls go to a different school and are extremely successful in their academics as well. The school has the goal of educating the people. Yes, they would like to educate and train the future leaders of Turkey but aim toward love and moral values for all the people.

Driving to Nigde took about three hours over hills and meadows. The countryside was beautiful with small villages scattered throughout. We arrived in Nigde at the Sungurbuy High School to be greeted by our host families with whom we would be spending the night. The Founder, Mr. Celal Avsar, greeted us and escorted us into the school. We were introduced to our host families and given a briefing on the high school. They have a dormitory for 45 boys and teach a focused curriculum of Math Science and English. There we had our first GAZOZ, bottled in Nigde and tasting like Raspberry Sprite. We had a great dinner at the high school before going over to the home of Mr. Avsar for dessert, the fabulous Cay (tea), and dancing!!! Did I say DANCING???

Yes, with a number of guests and our hosts, we were entertained by a young couple going through a henna ceremony prior to a wedding ceremony. The young woman was dressed in beautiful red fabrics completely covering her face. The ritual of painting both of their hands and dancing around them in celebration, was followed by all of us dancing around the couple and then dancing in aboundment throughout the room.

Each of us went home exhausted with our host families: Beth, Kevin and Ali spent the night with the Aydn Demircan family. They are blessed with a young son and a beautiful daughter. Beth slept in the daughters room which was so very cute. Kevin and Ali slept in the young son’s room. We all sat in their beautiful living room eight floors up in a very large condo. We continued to eat, having delicious ice cream and fruit.

Linda, Jeanette and Yavuz spent the night with Ibrahim and Sinem Oz and their two beautiful daughters. They live in a large condominium in a tall building. We very much enjoyed their warm hospitality. The next morning after Linda and Jeanette helped feed the baby (!) we dropped their older daughter at day care on the way to breakfast.

It truly is sad to leave our host families and the budding relationship we have formed with our new friends. Their generosity of sharing their home and the generous gifts are overwhelming and very touching. We hope to stay connected with these new friends. Our morning breakfast was amazing. We walked in the orchard at the lovely farmhouse and picked cherries off the trees, eating as we walked. We ate, melon, cherries, yogurt, olives, honey/butter, fabulous breads, cheeses and drank copious amounts of cay. Mr. Afaar and the hosts talked to us in a beautiful room made especially for these visits.Waving Waving Waving in farewell but in hopes that we will reconnect at some time.

Turkish Tea

Tea Brewing

During our dinner with the Art Ceramics owners, we were taught how to make the wonderful Turkish tea. By looking at the photo of the two tea pots on top of each other, you will see what I mean when I describe the process.
• Begin by boiling water in the lower larger tea pot.
• During that time soften some loose tea in the upper pot and place it on top of the larger pot.
• Once the lower pot water is boiling pour it gently over the softened tea in the small pot
• Place the small pot on top of the larger pot again. The larger pot will will be filled with water and set to boil
• Once the larger pot begins to boil, the upper tea pot is ready for pouring
• Add a sugar cube and Enjoy!!!

Izmir and the Aegean Sea

We flew into the Izmir airport and went directly to a hosted breakfast of local community leaders at the home of Osman Kanyis. We enjoyed conversation and dined on olives, honey and butter, turkish bagels, cheese and blackberries and many other wonderful foods.

As we drove to the town of Izmir, we traveled through the ancient part of the city winding up and up to the very top of the city…higher than two space needles….As you look at the photos you will see a panoramic view toward the Aegean Sea. The city borders the shoreline with a very very large shipping harbor!!! Our luncheon was sponsored by the Pita Restaurant owner. We had the very best Gyro’s ever!!

Our hotel, Otel Marla, right next to an Oto Park, was just a few steps from the Aegean bulkhead. We walked down there in the evening taking photos before we went to our host family, Suleyman Karadal, for another fantastic Turkish dinner. The view from their home of the Aegean was so peaceful and so very beautiful as the night descended and the city lights came on. The green beans and tomato sauce was especially enjoyed by Jeanette. There was an excellent discussion of Muslim traditions.

Around our hotel, there was a small army of dogs the size of wolfhounds and labs. They keep the streets clean and warn of approaching strangers. Citizens walk down the middle of the narrow streets enjoying the sights on both sides. The restaurants have continued to move out onto the sidewalks all the way to the street. Truth be told, there really was no sidewalk movement unless you went right into the tables of the patrons.

Ephesus, House of the Virgin Mary and Art Ceramics

This is what our revised Itinerary was for the day:

4:45 - Meet in hotel lobby

6:45 - Fly to Izmir

9:00 - Breakfast with host family

10:30 - Drive to Ephesus

11:30 - Tour Ephesus

2:00 - Lunch

3:00 - Virgin Mary's house

4:00 - Tour Art Ceramic production and showroom

5:00 - Artemis Temple

5:30 - Isa Bey Mosque

5:45 - Selcuk Museum

7:00 - Dinner with sponsor family

10:00 - Check in at hotel AND DIE!

With an itinerary like that (they kept it a secret from us until late in the day), it's no wonder that our guides wanted to make sure that we started the day with a full Turkish breakfast. We arrived at Ephesus (for more info about this place http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ephesus) at about 11:30. The 2 1/2 hour stroll through this historic site in 100 heat was worth every second. By the time this group photo was taken, most of us were about ready to pass out. Little did we know - the day had just begun.

After Ephesus, 2nd largest city of the Roman Empire, and its remarkable history, (besides the incredible HEAT) we began climbing into the hills looking out over the valley of Ephesus. We came to a quiet shady glade around a bend away from the Ephesus view. There John, one of Jesus’s Apostles took the mother of Jesus, Mary to live. John preached the countryside and Mary lived there until her death. Meryemana Evi, House of the Virgin Mary is fairly intact. Scholars had searched for the house for many years. It was not discovered until 1891.

We stopped next at Art Ceramics, a family-owned ceramic art studio making the most beautiful pieces with designs from the Selcuk Empire. Jeanette, of our group, tried her hand on the pottery wheel during our tour. Yasmine Atesh of Art Ceramics hosted our dinner that evening and presented each of us with a beautiful ceramic plate.

Artemis and Kusadasi

For the rest of our trip we were joined by Yavuz Bayam who recently received his Ph. D. from U.C. Davis and is back living in Istanbul with his family (but says he possibly will return to work in the U.S. at some point).

REST and RELAXATION: Kusadasi was the winner all around~!! Sun REST and long walks along the beach....and only 4705 steps today.

We experienced a visit to a our first school, The Yamanlar Ozyurt school, founded with Gülen movement principals (a transnational civic organization founded by Fethullah Gulen). We visited with two ESL teachers. One from the private school that works on English up to 8 hours a day. The public school teacher only has eight hours a week!!! Their examination program begins at grade 6, 7, 8 and then 4 years of high school with focus on Science. Recently they are expanding their focus toward the humanities. Most of their time is spent teaching for the examinations. Those who do not pass the examinations will be directed toward technical programs or other educational opportunities. In their improving educational opportunities for more learing in Eastern Turkey, they have established "study halls" to enhance their general education. Both the private and the public education have their curriculum regulated by the government. One percent of the students pass the examinations into university.

The ESL program follows the Cambridge University system. There is very little special education taught in either of the schools. Due to the examination system, the handicapped are trained in crafts and other service venues.

We will be visiting a university within days.

Artemis as the Lady of Ephesus is pictured above.

museum, spices and a boat ride

Thursday, 6.17.2010 Istanbul

Walk! Walk! Walk! Walk!!!! Wednesday we walked 10,526 steps according to Jeanette Rodriquez one of our co-travelers who wore a pedometer!!! Today we continued on by going over to the Karakoy Jewish Museum driving over the Galata Bridge to the Asian side of Istanbul and crossing the Golden Horn. The Museum strongly supports the generosity of the Turks in accepting Jews into Turkey. Following the visit we joined locals in Cay and street dancing! (video to come)

We continued walking down narrow up hill winding streets of cobblestone with exciting shops on either side.....We arrived at the Galata Tower which was once a lighthouse but now gives wonderful views of the entire city! There was an elevator!!! which took us part way up and then winding winding stairways to the outer view sports. It was built in the year 528 and continued to be a lighthouse until recently where it has become a tourist view spot!! The views were fantastic and we could see both the European and Asian side, houses, government buildings, and the Turkish flags everywhere.

The Spice Market was so exciting, busy, with sights and sounds and smells and gobs and gobs of people going in and coming out. Built about 300 years ago, it continues to be a meeting place for social gatherings and shopping. The spices are brilliant in color and smell!! We really enjoyed walking (did I say we enjoyed walking AGAIN??). But you can see by the photos, the place is fantastic!

After lunch, we headed to the Bosphorus Strait and boarded ship for a wonderful two hour boat trip down the Strait to the entrance of the Black Sea. The homes were first rate and very beautiful. The breeze was welcoming and we all stayed up top on the back of the boat enjoying the scenery and looking at history all around us! What a great day and the education we received cannot be surpassed!

pics: inside the Blue Mosque, a typical street scene

Linda Danforth inside the Blue Mosque.

A typical street scene in Istanbul.