Faith, Hope and Tomatoes

The following article was initially written for Earth Ministry; Earth Letter Autumn 2010

Faith, Hope and Tomatoes

by Jessie Dye, Earth Ministry, fellow traveler to Turkey
and a great team member

It the end, it was the tomatoes that revealed the mysteries to me. Full, ripe, and exquisite, they were served at the beginning of every meal, even breakfast. Every single tomato had the flavor of a full-summer Iowa fruit, just pulled from the vine. The tomatoes of Turkey put me into a state of ecstasy three times a day, which began to annoy my fellow travelers. But Turkish tomatoes were so consistently excellent and so unlike the long-distance trucked tomatoes of the I-5 corridor back home that I could not contain my bliss. What an amazing, local fresh food, thriving in Anatolia and yet indigenous to the Americas. Like so much in Turkey, tomatoes exemplify a joyful integration of the global human experience.

The land mass of Anatolia, called Asia Minor by the Romans and known as Turkey today, is the vibrant crossroads of great movements in history.

Grain was first cultivated on the highlands of eastern Anatolia, between the headwaters of the Tigris and

Mosque and Turkish flag in Izmir
Euphrates rivers. The earliest city on earth is believed to be in Western Anatolia. Ephesus served as the Roman capitol of Asia and early Christianity established itself there. When Constantine’s mother, St. Monica, convinced her son to go to battle under the sign of the cross, Constantinople (now Istanbul) became the capitol of the Byzantine Empire and the first Christian state.

Later, the Ottoman Turks conquered a huge swath of the world, from North Africa to Central Asia. The sultans grew wealthy by taking a cut from every jewel and spice-laden ship passing through the Strait of Bosporus between Asia and Europe at the terminus of the Silk Road. Turkey today is a fully-functioning democracy with modern infrastructure and an economy that weathered the recent recession better than most of Europe; it holds the most ancient and most modern of human ideals with grace.

The great aspects of spiritual tradition are everywhere evident in Anatolia. The Goddess, under the name of Cybil among many others, was worshipped on the Eastern shores of the Mediterranean. She morphed into Dianna whose fabulous temple on the Aegean Sea was named a wonder of the ancient world. The home of Mary, Mother of Jesus is on a shady hillside nearby, about five miles from present day Izmir. The feminine face of the Divine shows Herself in temples and ancient sites throughout the great open-air museum that is modern-day Turkey.

Woman have had equal rights in Turkey almost as long as in America. Contemporary Turkish woman balance their faith, families and their careers as well as woman anywhere – better, if you consider the food.

Now almost completely Islamic, Turkey has a long history of tolerance and respect for diversity. The Ottomans gave sanctuary to the Jews when they were expelled from Spain in 1492 and welcomed refugees from Hitler during the Holocaust. Ladino and Yiddish are still spoken in neighborhoods of Istanbul.

The Sufi mystic Jelaluddin Rumi, who believed that all paths lead to the Divine, established a mosque and is buried in the holy city of Konya. This tolerant and loving Islamic tradition of Sufism is that which defines Turkish Islam. And is it that very tradition that brought me to Turkey and allowed me to revel in these fabulous tomatoes.

For Rumi’s great teacher, friend, and spiritual partner, the Dervish Shams, left Konya and met a card shark and vagabond in distant Damascus, a young man named Francis from the

Jessie and her traveling companions at the mosque of the
great Sufi poet and Iman, Jelaluddin Rumi in Konya

Italian town of Assisi. Francis cheated at cards with the Imam, and yet was deeply touched and ultimately influenced by the ecstatic and mystical Sufi love of God and creation that he learned from Shams. Francis returned to Italy after being fully immersed in Sufi teaching, and began the mystic tradition within Christianity, that which expresses ecstatic love for God and all of God’s creatures. Francis is, for obvious reasons, the Patron Saint of Christian environmentalism. I work for St. Francis, indirectly.

Meanwhile, back in Turkey at the end of the 20th Century, a remarkable Islamic Sufi teacher was articulating a strikingly similar vision of love of humanity and Creation in a modern context. Imam Fethuallah Gulen defies categorization, as do all great spiritual teachers. Gulen preaches that to understand the Holy Koran, a Muslim must use the heart as much as the intellect. In the tradition of the Sufis, Gulen shares the belief that God, humanity, and the natural world are interconnected. As a result, a believer will love and respect humanity as well as Earth’s natural ecosystems.

The generous followers of Imam Gulen invite faith and civic leaders from around the world to visit Turkey, learn their history, share their civic engagement projects, and of course eat their tomatoes. I was privileged to be part of a cultural awareness mission this past June as a guest of the Seattle-based Acacia Foundation.

Gulen’s preaching has inspired a whole generation of Turks who promote education as the way forward in a globalized world. Learning is the key for modern Muslims to be at home on a wildly diverse planet while holding true to the values of a loving and peaceful faith. Gulen’s Islam sees no conflict between science and religion, believing that the incredible complexity of Earth’s ecosystems and the physics of the universe all reveal the mind of God.

Gulen stands for nothing if not tolerance and dialogue among people of all faiths, open to the truth of the Other with a loving heart. In the way of the Sufis, he teaches to the whole of the human psyche, the intellect, the heart, and the spirit. The mystery of Turkey is in its glorious and peaceful integration of ancient and modern, science and faith, mind and heart, East and West: all of these amazing elements splendidly fused and revealed in the streets of Istanbul and the cuisine of Anatolia.

Gulen-inspired educators who have established dozens of schools across Turkey, and over one hundred in the poorest countries of Africa and Eastern Europe. They are absolutely committed to education as the way out of poverty, despair, and prejudice. Especially important in the largely Muslim countries of the former Soviet Union, Gulen’s school provide hope, the strongest an antidote to the toxic messengers of jihad. Their civic engagement projects do not intervene in political struggles but offer food and assistance in disasters of all kinds, natural and human-caused.

Christian mysticism has love of Creation at its heart; this is the spiritual center of the faith-based environmental movement. It is also the theological tradition of Earth Ministry in a clear line extending back to St. Francis of Assisi. Take one step further, to Rumi and Shams, the Imam and Dervish of Konya, to find the source of
Jessie’s hosts in Turkey were the Acacia Foundation in Seattle
and BAKIAD in Istanbul. Here, Jessie receives a gift from
Ahmet Dastan as a gesture of intercultural friendship.

inspiration of Fethulla Gulen. We who work for Creation care in 21st century America share common spiritual ancestors with Gulen’s followers in present day Turkey. It is my hope that they will become our strong partners in our common responsibility to protect God’s good Earth.

The secret the tomatoes revealed to me is that the union of ancient indigenous food from the West, grown locally and organically in the East and served with love and friendship between people of diverse cultures, brings nothing but joy. Our differences, when integrated with respect and appreciation, shower blessings upon us all. Just eat a Turkish tomato and you’ll know.

Closing of our Turkey Trip

As we complete our trip, we thank all those who made our trip so very exciting, educational, and inspirational! We have already had separation anxiety, our bags overloaded, and exhaustion has set in.....we will sleep all the way home I am sure....dreaming of good food, good friends and good places!!!! WAVING WAVING WAVING!!!!!!!

Kimse Yok Mu, STV, Kuzguncuk Armenian Church

On our last full day in Istanbul we had a chance to visit an NGO, Kimse Yok Mu, formed around 1999 following a major earthquake. In this earthquake, a woman buried in rubble kept screaming “Is anybody there?” thus the name; Kimse Yok Mu. They are a disaster response organization with 14 thousand volunteers and 80 paid staff. Their aim is to be there first. Their focus is to fight poverty, provide medical supplies, assist in disasters, micro financing, and woman focused issues. To learn more go to their web site http://www.kimseyokmu.org.tu/

We then traveled to a private TV station, STV, where we were given a tour of the facility and got to meet their famous cooking channel chef from the program, Yesil Elma; Green Apple! In 1993 they became a private series of channels for families. They call it responsible broadcasting and receive their news from CIHN Network, which we also visited. They reach 140 countries, targeting Turkish families mostly in the Middle East. They have channels like the BBC/CNN, cultural educational programs, children channels, and many more. Their funding comes from advertising. They have been rated by Nielsen as #5. They have a channel is the US in New Jersey. It can be watched on line by going to ebru.tv. Ali became our genuine “fake” but FAMOUS anchor!!!

Later on this day we visited an Armenian Church that is on land donated by the Turkish government. Since that donation, the church divided the land and donated half for the establishment of a Mosque and they now stand side by side.

Fatih University and Zaman Newspaper

Again we visited a beautiful educational facility, Fatih University in Istanbul. Dr. Caksu gave us a thorough briefing on the curriculum with emphasis on law, economics, medicine and languages. They have 700 international sutdents from 70 countries with over 10,000 students attending the University. Most classes are taught in English and the University provides the textboooks. 1.5 million young people take the enterance exam each year. More information can be gotten from www.fatih.edu.tr. Dr. Caksu did encourage sister university programs.

Zaman Newspaper was an exciting visit. Our briefing was conducted as we watched the news reporters preparing for publication. They do investigative reporting and sell their news to newspapers through out the Middle East. TODAY'S ZAMAN comes out in an English version and was read by all of us whenever we could get one of them. And of all things the brother of our dear friend in Tacoma, Turan Kayaoglu works at ZAMAN. Everytime Jessie saw someone who looked like Turan, she would run and embrace them with hugs from Washington. We made a lot of friends that way but no brother. Finally he showed up, looking so dapper and showing so much resemblance to Turan. Everyone had a good visit with him.

Capadocia

Before flying back to Istanbul on our last day in central Turkey, we left our host families and ventured into the surreal land of Cappadocia.

It contains several underground cities largely used by early Christians as hiding places before they became an accepted religion.

Wikipedia's description comes far from capturing the magic of this place, but at least it gives you a little history behind this awe-inspiring grandeur:

Cappadocia (pronounced /kæpəˈdoʊʃə/; also Capadocia; Turkish Kapadokya, from Greek: Καππαδοκία / Kappadokía) is a region in central Turkey, largely in Nevşehir Province.
The name was traditionally used in Christian sources throughout history and is still widely used as an international tourism concept to define a region of exceptional natural wonders, in particular characterized by fairy chimneys and a unique historical and cultural heritage. The term, as used in tourism, roughly corresponds to present-day Nevşehir Province.
In the time of Herodotus, the Cappadocians were reported as occupying the whole region from Mount Taurus to the vicinity of the Euxine (Black Sea). Cappadocia, in this sense, was bounded in the south by the chain of the Taurus Mountains that separate it from Cilicia, to the east by the upper Euphrates and the Armenian Highland, to the north by Pontus, and to the west by Lycaonia and eastern Galatia.

A few of us ventured into the vast catacombs that span 8 known floors beneath the surface. The ceilings and tunnels were so low in places that we had to reduce ourselves to hobbit stature in order to squeeze through the passages. Once back in the sunlight, we continued on to visit churches within other caves and the renowned fairy chimneys.

Aspendos Theatre and Duden Waterfalls on our drive to Konya

We joined up with Semra Ozdemir in Antalya for our drive to Konya. Semra has lived in Washington for two years and met up with us for the rest of the trip before staying in Turkey with her family for several more weeks. On the way, we stopped at Aspendos to see the Aspendos Theatre. Its spectacularly well-preserved theatre is one of the best examples of Roman theatre construction in the world. The theatre is still used today.

We also stopped at a restaurant on the Düden Waterfalls. The place has the appearance of a botanical heaven thanks to the rich variety of plants. We were surrounded by the waterfalls and other trout restaurants.

Antalya on the Turkish Riviera

On June 20th we flew to Antalya, the seaside resort capital of the Turkish Mediterranean coast. In Antalya, with its one million people and considered the Turkish Riviera(used mostly by Russians, Germans and Romanians), we visited the Hanedan Carpet Gallery which was very educational. The carpet Master explained all the different kinds of rugs and the values associated with the quality of the rugs. He also gave a lot of treatment suggestions for the care of the rugs. He said that if you ever got a burn on the rug to gently rub it with sandpaper. He also said always wash the rugs with soap and water, never send them to the drycleaners.

In the identification of rugs, white tassels on rugs means they are made from wool/cotton. Grey tassels mean wool/wool and white mixed with brown/beige identify the rug as silk. Braided tassels means the weaver was not married while braided tassels tied together mean the weaver was married.

Pictured in the post: Fluted Minaret at Antalya; our group overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, and Michelle doing some rug shopping

RUMI and the MEVLANA MUSEUM, NIGDE

Here it is the 7th day….Summer Soltice…and we are in the city of RUMI, Konya, where 9 thousand and I mean NINE THOUSAND years ago, the Selcuk Sultante of Rum ruled. The Sultan’s first name was Alaaddin. (Remember Adaddin and the beautiful carpet?) The Sultan established a beautiful mosque which is one of the oldest in Turkey.

We walked through the Mevlana Museum where Rumi established a sect of universal love and where the “whirling” dervishes lived and practiced. Rumi is considered one of the world’s greatest mystics. It is considered a sacred Muslin place and was full of visitors from Turkey and from around the world. It is beautiful and peaceful and surrounded by beautiful gardens!!

We traveled on to visit a Konya private high school and join them for lunch. Again the faculty stressed the annual examinations which had just been completed. As a private high school they are evaluated on where their students land in examination results. They have 500 students selected from 2000 applicants annually. 180 live in dormitories, 320 commute. They run a regular government dictated curriculum for 375 students and a Science High School for the rest. (like a gifted program). This was an all boys school. The girls go to a different school and are extremely successful in their academics as well. The school has the goal of educating the people. Yes, they would like to educate and train the future leaders of Turkey but aim toward love and moral values for all the people.

Driving to Nigde took about three hours over hills and meadows. The countryside was beautiful with small villages scattered throughout. We arrived in Nigde at the Sungurbuy High School to be greeted by our host families with whom we would be spending the night. The Founder, Mr. Celal Avsar, greeted us and escorted us into the school. We were introduced to our host families and given a briefing on the high school. They have a dormitory for 45 boys and teach a focused curriculum of Math Science and English. There we had our first GAZOZ, bottled in Nigde and tasting like Raspberry Sprite. We had a great dinner at the high school before going over to the home of Mr. Avsar for dessert, the fabulous Cay (tea), and dancing!!! Did I say DANCING???

Yes, with a number of guests and our hosts, we were entertained by a young couple going through a henna ceremony prior to a wedding ceremony. The young woman was dressed in beautiful red fabrics completely covering her face. The ritual of painting both of their hands and dancing around them in celebration, was followed by all of us dancing around the couple and then dancing in aboundment throughout the room.

Each of us went home exhausted with our host families: Beth, Kevin and Ali spent the night with the Aydn Demircan family. They are blessed with a young son and a beautiful daughter. Beth slept in the daughters room which was so very cute. Kevin and Ali slept in the young son’s room. We all sat in their beautiful living room eight floors up in a very large condo. We continued to eat, having delicious ice cream and fruit.

Linda, Jeanette and Yavuz spent the night with Ibrahim and Sinem Oz and their two beautiful daughters. They live in a large condominium in a tall building. We very much enjoyed their warm hospitality. The next morning after Linda and Jeanette helped feed the baby (!) we dropped their older daughter at day care on the way to breakfast.

It truly is sad to leave our host families and the budding relationship we have formed with our new friends. Their generosity of sharing their home and the generous gifts are overwhelming and very touching. We hope to stay connected with these new friends. Our morning breakfast was amazing. We walked in the orchard at the lovely farmhouse and picked cherries off the trees, eating as we walked. We ate, melon, cherries, yogurt, olives, honey/butter, fabulous breads, cheeses and drank copious amounts of cay. Mr. Afaar and the hosts talked to us in a beautiful room made especially for these visits.Waving Waving Waving in farewell but in hopes that we will reconnect at some time.

Turkish Tea

Tea Brewing

During our dinner with the Art Ceramics owners, we were taught how to make the wonderful Turkish tea. By looking at the photo of the two tea pots on top of each other, you will see what I mean when I describe the process.
• Begin by boiling water in the lower larger tea pot.
• During that time soften some loose tea in the upper pot and place it on top of the larger pot.
• Once the lower pot water is boiling pour it gently over the softened tea in the small pot
• Place the small pot on top of the larger pot again. The larger pot will will be filled with water and set to boil
• Once the larger pot begins to boil, the upper tea pot is ready for pouring
• Add a sugar cube and Enjoy!!!

Izmir and the Aegean Sea

We flew into the Izmir airport and went directly to a hosted breakfast of local community leaders at the home of Osman Kanyis. We enjoyed conversation and dined on olives, honey and butter, turkish bagels, cheese and blackberries and many other wonderful foods.

As we drove to the town of Izmir, we traveled through the ancient part of the city winding up and up to the very top of the city…higher than two space needles….As you look at the photos you will see a panoramic view toward the Aegean Sea. The city borders the shoreline with a very very large shipping harbor!!! Our luncheon was sponsored by the Pita Restaurant owner. We had the very best Gyro’s ever!!

Our hotel, Otel Marla, right next to an Oto Park, was just a few steps from the Aegean bulkhead. We walked down there in the evening taking photos before we went to our host family, Suleyman Karadal, for another fantastic Turkish dinner. The view from their home of the Aegean was so peaceful and so very beautiful as the night descended and the city lights came on. The green beans and tomato sauce was especially enjoyed by Jeanette. There was an excellent discussion of Muslim traditions.

Around our hotel, there was a small army of dogs the size of wolfhounds and labs. They keep the streets clean and warn of approaching strangers. Citizens walk down the middle of the narrow streets enjoying the sights on both sides. The restaurants have continued to move out onto the sidewalks all the way to the street. Truth be told, there really was no sidewalk movement unless you went right into the tables of the patrons.

Ephesus, House of the Virgin Mary and Art Ceramics

This is what our revised Itinerary was for the day:

4:45 - Meet in hotel lobby

6:45 - Fly to Izmir

9:00 - Breakfast with host family

10:30 - Drive to Ephesus

11:30 - Tour Ephesus

2:00 - Lunch

3:00 - Virgin Mary's house

4:00 - Tour Art Ceramic production and showroom

5:00 - Artemis Temple

5:30 - Isa Bey Mosque

5:45 - Selcuk Museum

7:00 - Dinner with sponsor family

10:00 - Check in at hotel AND DIE!

With an itinerary like that (they kept it a secret from us until late in the day), it's no wonder that our guides wanted to make sure that we started the day with a full Turkish breakfast. We arrived at Ephesus (for more info about this place http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ephesus) at about 11:30. The 2 1/2 hour stroll through this historic site in 100 heat was worth every second. By the time this group photo was taken, most of us were about ready to pass out. Little did we know - the day had just begun.

After Ephesus, 2nd largest city of the Roman Empire, and its remarkable history, (besides the incredible HEAT) we began climbing into the hills looking out over the valley of Ephesus. We came to a quiet shady glade around a bend away from the Ephesus view. There John, one of Jesus’s Apostles took the mother of Jesus, Mary to live. John preached the countryside and Mary lived there until her death. Meryemana Evi, House of the Virgin Mary is fairly intact. Scholars had searched for the house for many years. It was not discovered until 1891.

We stopped next at Art Ceramics, a family-owned ceramic art studio making the most beautiful pieces with designs from the Selcuk Empire. Jeanette, of our group, tried her hand on the pottery wheel during our tour. Yasmine Atesh of Art Ceramics hosted our dinner that evening and presented each of us with a beautiful ceramic plate.

Artemis and Kusadasi

For the rest of our trip we were joined by Yavuz Bayam who recently received his Ph. D. from U.C. Davis and is back living in Istanbul with his family (but says he possibly will return to work in the U.S. at some point).

REST and RELAXATION: Kusadasi was the winner all around~!! Sun REST and long walks along the beach....and only 4705 steps today.

We experienced a visit to a our first school, The Yamanlar Ozyurt school, founded with Gülen movement principals (a transnational civic organization founded by Fethullah Gulen). We visited with two ESL teachers. One from the private school that works on English up to 8 hours a day. The public school teacher only has eight hours a week!!! Their examination program begins at grade 6, 7, 8 and then 4 years of high school with focus on Science. Recently they are expanding their focus toward the humanities. Most of their time is spent teaching for the examinations. Those who do not pass the examinations will be directed toward technical programs or other educational opportunities. In their improving educational opportunities for more learing in Eastern Turkey, they have established "study halls" to enhance their general education. Both the private and the public education have their curriculum regulated by the government. One percent of the students pass the examinations into university.

The ESL program follows the Cambridge University system. There is very little special education taught in either of the schools. Due to the examination system, the handicapped are trained in crafts and other service venues.

We will be visiting a university within days.

Artemis as the Lady of Ephesus is pictured above.

museum, spices and a boat ride

Thursday, 6.17.2010 Istanbul

Walk! Walk! Walk! Walk!!!! Wednesday we walked 10,526 steps according to Jeanette Rodriquez one of our co-travelers who wore a pedometer!!! Today we continued on by going over to the Karakoy Jewish Museum driving over the Galata Bridge to the Asian side of Istanbul and crossing the Golden Horn. The Museum strongly supports the generosity of the Turks in accepting Jews into Turkey. Following the visit we joined locals in Cay and street dancing! (video to come)

We continued walking down narrow up hill winding streets of cobblestone with exciting shops on either side.....We arrived at the Galata Tower which was once a lighthouse but now gives wonderful views of the entire city! There was an elevator!!! which took us part way up and then winding winding stairways to the outer view sports. It was built in the year 528 and continued to be a lighthouse until recently where it has become a tourist view spot!! The views were fantastic and we could see both the European and Asian side, houses, government buildings, and the Turkish flags everywhere.

The Spice Market was so exciting, busy, with sights and sounds and smells and gobs and gobs of people going in and coming out. Built about 300 years ago, it continues to be a meeting place for social gatherings and shopping. The spices are brilliant in color and smell!! We really enjoyed walking (did I say we enjoyed walking AGAIN??). But you can see by the photos, the place is fantastic!

After lunch, we headed to the Bosphorus Strait and boarded ship for a wonderful two hour boat trip down the Strait to the entrance of the Black Sea. The homes were first rate and very beautiful. The breeze was welcoming and we all stayed up top on the back of the boat enjoying the scenery and looking at history all around us! What a great day and the education we received cannot be surpassed!

pics: inside the Blue Mosque, a typical street scene

Linda Danforth inside the Blue Mosque.

A typical street scene in Istanbul.